Approaching from the west, visit the main campsite near the entrance of the reserve where it is permissible to walk around. Note that, once you enter the reserve proper, birders are required to remain in their vehicles at all times except at a few designated sites. The riverine thicket running along the lower edge of the campsite supports Jameson’s Firefinch, Green-winged Pytilia, Crested Francolin, Stierling’s Wren-warbler, Black-crowned Tchagra, and Orange-breasted Bush-shrike. Yellow-billed Hornbill are tame and approachable, while Striped Kingfisher hunt from exposed perches above the camping sites. This area is also one of the better areas in the park for the aptly-named Gorgeous Bush-shrike, which is best detected by its loud ringing calls. The road between the campsite and the main lodge supports an interesting assemblage of open country species including the Black-bellied Bustard, Senegal Lapwing (especially after fires), and Common Buttonquail. This is also a fantastic area to watch overhead for Bateleur and Lappet-faced Vulture once the thermals have formed.

It is also permissible to walk around the main lodge, though remain mindful of dangerous game that occasionally visits this section of the park. Flowering trees surrounding the tented accommodation – mainly Weeping Boer Bean trees (Schotia brachypetla) – attract a high diversity of sunbird species including the Purple-banded, Collared, Olive, Grey, Scarlet-chested, White-bellied and occasionally Neergaard’s Sunbirds. The latter is best detected by its distinctive calls. Mixed species foraging flocks regularly form here and often contain Orange-breasted Bush-shrike, Grey Penduline-tit, Stierling’s Wren-warbler, and White-crested Helmetshrike. Search the scrubby fringes and river gulleys in this area for the shy Bearded Scrub-robin and Pink-throated Twinspot, both of which are best detected by their calls. A covey of tame Crested Guineafowl also patrol this area in the early mornings offering sublime views of this normally shy species. These birds are often seen on the Riverview Walk, which leaves from the main offices, along which it is also possible to see the Pink-throated Twinspot, Grey Waxbill, Eastern Nicator, and Scaly-throated Honeyguide.

South of the main camp, one enters an area of open thornveld and sand forest. In the open thornveld, look for Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey Penduline-tit, Bushveld Pipit, Flappet Lark, Grey Go-away-bird, and an assortment of raptors including the Tawny and Lesser Spotted Eagles. The sand forest surrounding the Kubube and Kumasinga hides supports Crested Guineafowl, Eastern Nicator, Bearded Scrub-robin, Stierlings Wren-warbler, Rudd’s Apalis, Common Square-tailed Drongo and Gorgeous Bush-shrikes. This is also one of the premier sites in the country to look for Pink-throated Twinspot, African Broadbill and Neergaard’s Sunbird. Knowledge of the calls is essential to finding these three species. Kumasinga Hide over-looks a small waterhole which attracts an array of seedeaters including the Green Twinspot and Grey Waxbill. While it is permissible to leave one’s vehicle to walk to the hides, remain cautious of dangerous game (including lion!) at all times.

South of the hides, one approaches the extensive Nsumo Pan. This is a wonderland for waterbird species and a visit to one of the hides – where it is again permissible to leave your vehicle – should produce African Spoonbill, both Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Storks, Intermediate Egret, Black and Goliath Herons, African Openbill as well as an assortment of waterfowl. Scan any areas covered by lily pads for both African Pygmy Goose and Lesser Jacana (a scope is handy), and search the reedbeds for African Swamphen and Allen’s Gallinule (summer). When water levels drop, look for Greater Painted-snipe. Fever Tree forests fringing the main pan support the Woodland Kingfisher, Green-capped Eremomala, and Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (summer). Other notable species include the Southern Banded Snake-eagle, Lizard Buzzard, and Dwarf Bittern (where trees are flooded). The fig forest walk situated adjacent to the pan should deliver the Narina Trogon, Green Malkoha, Broad-billed Roller (summer), Black-bellied Starling, Black-throated Wattle-eye and Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher; though a walk through this section of the reserve requires an armed escort and must be arranged through the main camp. Enquire as to whether there have been any recent sightings of Pel’s Fishing Owl, as a pair of these impressive birds sometimes roosts in this area.

The eastern sections of the reserve are blanketed in dry thornveld. In the vicinity of the airstrip, look for Senegal Lapwing, African Pipit, Desert Cisticola, and Bronze-winged Courser. This is also the premier site in South Africa for Olive-tree Warbler, which is best found in late summer (March/April) when the birds call prior to their return migration. Finally, the river and fig forest along the eastern boundary of the reserve supports Purple-crested Turaco, Common Square-tailed Drongo, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, and White-eared Barbet. Moreover, watch the vegetated banks of the river from the bridge for the shy African Finfoot.

Key species:

Pink-throated Twinspot, Rudd’s Apalis, Neergaard’s Sunbird, Lemon-breasted Canary, Senegal Lapwing, Pel’s Fishing Owl, African Broadbill