Tours to Sani Pass are most rewarding in the summer months when the full assemblage of alpine species may be seen, and when the proteas and aloes come to flower attracting a plethora of interesting nectar feeding species. Some 200 species occur in the area, more than 40 of which are endemic to South Africa and Lesotho. A bonus is that two of the top specials of Sani Pass, the Gurney’s Sugarbird and Drakensburg Rockjumper, are members of the two endemic bird families to the region. Much of the birding on Sani Pass is done from the single road up and down the escarpment between the South African and Lesotho national border posts and visits to Sani Pass must therefore be aligned with border times and passports are necessary to visit the pass. An overnight stay in the vicinity of Sani Pass is also recommended, and 4×4 vehicles with high clearance are required to proceed up the pass.

Riverine habitats near the foot of the pass and closer to Himeville are rich in species. Search the dense wooded gullies near the Sani Pass hotel for the near-endemic Bush Blackcap. Cape Grassbird, another near-endemic species, is common throughout the area and is best detected by its high-pitched trill call. African Yellow Warbler and Drakensberg Prinia prefer flatter sections with lower vegetation. Note that Karoo Prinia occurs nearer the top of the pass and Drakensberg Prinia is best separated from this widespread species by the yellow wash to the underparts and the more diffuse streaking across the chest. Other notable species in this section include Bokmakierie, Cape Rock-thrush, Greater Striped Swallow, Rock Martin, Diederik Cuckoo, Common Waxbill, African Firefinch and Pin-tailed Whydah. Small dams and river crossing in the area may also yield the scarce Half-collared Kingfisher.

Further along, the topography becomes steeper and the grassy hillsides begin to support proteas. This is the area in which to search for the near-endemic Gurney’s Sugarbird, which often perches conspicuously atop protea flowers. The indescribable Malachite Sunbird is also common in the area, frequenting the flowering proteas and aloes. Rocky sections in this stretch of the pass regularly host both Ground Woodpecker and Buff-streaked Chat; the former regularly using the road cuttings to nest. African Rock and Nicholson’s Pipit may also be seen in this area and are usually found calling from prominent rocks. Roadside thickets nearer the South African boarder post support Barratt’s Warbler. This near-endemic species is common here, though is usually slightly easier to see higher-up where the vegetation becomes less dense. Knowledge of the call of this species is also essential to locating this shy and reclusive bird. Beyond the South African boarder post, 4×4 and high clearance are required until one reaches the Lesotho boarder post at the very top of the pass.

Approximately 2km beyond the South African boarder post, stop at one of two view sites situated on two successive corners. Here it is possible to scan the buttresses of the ‘Twelve Apostles’ where an interesting diversity of raptors may be seen. This includes the Jackal Buzzard, Lanner Flacon, and both Cape and Bearded Vultures. Mountain heath in this area supports Wailing Cisticola, Fairy Flycatcher, and both the Karoo and Drakensberg Prinias; though be cautioned of hybrids between the two latter species, showing intermediate features.

The switchbacks near the top of the pass support Drakensburg Rockjumper, Drakensburg Siskin, Cape Canary and Wailing Cisticola. Pull over in one of the wider sections and search for these species among the rock scree. Alternatively, crest the top of the pass and enter Lesotho. After checking through the boarder, turn towards the Sani Top Chalets and park. This is a fantastic site to have a mid-morning break and to do some birding. Drakensberg Siskin and Drakensburg Rockjumper are both resident around the chalets, alongside the common Cape Bunting, Cape Sparrow and Speckled Pigeon. Look too for the unusual Sloggert’s Ice Rat, an unusual alpine mammal. A short walk around the lodge should also yield Sentinel Rock Thrush, Sickle-winged Chat and Mountain Pipit (summer only) in short cropped grassy areas. The latter is best separated from the similar African Pipit by its larger overall size, darker appearance, buffy outer tail feathers, and different flight call; however most pipits in this alpine habitat can safely be assumed as Mountain Pipits.

Continue past Sani Top and through the village into the alpine heathland. Check the stone kraals here for Ground Woodpecker and African Rock Pipit. In the montane heath, look for Fairy Flycatcher, Grey-winged Francolin, Yellow Canary, Grey Tit, Layard’s Warbler, Black-headed Canary and Wailing Cisticola. Black Harrier is usually also seen quartering overhead, particularly in late-summer.

While birding the Sani Pass, always keep a watchful eye overhead for the Bearded Vulture as several pairs of these impressive birds are known to nest nearby. Should you not see them riding updrafts nearer the top of the pass, continue beyond the Lesotho boarder and over Kotisephole Pass for 20km to where there is a cleared entrance to a quarry site on the left. The cliffs of Black Mountain, to your right, support a resident pair of Bearded Vulture and the birds are often sighted overhead even when not breeding.

Key species:

Drakensburg Rockjumper, Drakensburg Siskin, Gurney’s Sugarbird, Bearded Vulture, Mountain Pipit, Sentinel Rock Thrush, Barratt’s Warbler, Bush Blackcap