North-east Zululand – Tongaland Kosi Bay Nature Reserve

About the Birding

Situated in the extreme north-eastern corner of the KwaZulu-Natal, bordering Mozambique to the north, Kosi Bay offers some of the most exciting birding opportunities in southern Africa. Kosi Bay Nature Reserve comprises 1000 hectares including the estuarine lake system consisting of four inter-linked lakes holding varying levels of fresh and brackish water. The four lakes, Makhawulani, Mpugwini, Nhlange and aManzimnyama are fed by the Siyadla and Nswamanzi Rivers from the south and west respectively.

At the northern end of the lake system, the estuary opens into the sea providing a relatively large area of open sandbanks, mudflats and some of the most diverse and extensive mangrove swamps anywhere in South Africa. The attraction of Kosi is not restricted to the aquatic environment, given the extensive surrounding tropical East Coast littoral vegetation including mature coastal forest, thicket and grassland. The fringes of the lakes and, in particular, the southern lakes hold relatively large areas of swamp and Raphia Palm Forests. Within this vegetation mosaic a number of endemic species as well as species at the southern end of their Afrotropical range can be found.

The summer months are best for waders, and the estuary attracts a good diversity of species including the usual Common Greenshank, Curlew Sandpiper and relatively large numbers of Eurasian Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, and Bar-tailed Godwit amongst others. Small numbers of Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers are also present at times and, if one is lucky, the odd Crab-plover may reveal itself from the mangroves. Other birds include the Black and Rufous-bellied Herons, an assortment of terns including the Little and Lesser Crested Terns, Giant Kingfisher, both Greater and Lesser Flamingos, and Saddle-billed Stork. This is also one of the most reliable sites in South Africa for the range-restricted Mangrove Kingfisher, which is best detected by its loud and distinctive call.

The lakes themselves are best explored by boat. African Fish Eagle, Western Osprey and Palmnut Vulture are all common and can be seen patrolling the shoreline or lakeside fringes, while reedy channels holds small numbers of Rufous-winged Cisticola, African Sedge and African Reed Warblers and ever present African Marsh Harriers. Quiet backwaters attract Malachite Kingfisher, African Pygmy Geese and White-backed Duck. The ‘narrows’ trip can be sometimes be arranged at night, where sightings of Pel’s Fishing Owl are regular.

The coastal forest support a plethora of interesting species including the Common Square-tailed Drongo, Black-bellied Starling, Woodwards’ Batis, Narina Trogon, Green Malkoha, African Broadbill, Yellow-streaked Bulbul, Grey Cuckooshrike, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Chorister and Red-capped Robin-chats, Olive and Gorgeous Bush-shrikes, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, both Rudd’s and Yellow-breasted Apalis, Eastern Nicator, Terrestrial Brownbul, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Trumpeter Hornbill, Livingstone’s Turaco, and the Spectacled and Dark-backed Weavers. Overhead, watch for the African Cuckoo-hawk and Southern Banded Snake-eagle – both species are regularly seen hunting along the forest edge. The incredibly range-restricted Plain-backed Sunbird is also occasionally sighted. The Raphia Forests support relatively large numbers of Palmnut Vulture; this being one of the most reliable sites for the species anywhere within southern Africa. A canoe trip into the swamp forest up the Siyadla River at the southern end of the fourth lake regularly produces African Finfoot, Western Osprey, African Pygmy Geese, Southern Brown-throated Weaver, and Purple Heron.

The larger patches of grassland within the woodland mosaic support Black-bellied Bustard, both the Flappet and Rufous-naped Larks, Croaking Cisticola, European Roller (summer), Shelley’s Francolin and African Stonechat in winter. Moist grasslands and swamp to the south and west of Kosi Bay hold all three Longclaw species (Cape, Yellow-throated and Rosy-throated), Lesser Jacana, Blue-billed Teal, as well as a variety of typical moist grassland species including Pale-crowned Cisticola, and the African Wattled, Senegal and Black-winged Lapwings.

Key species:

Pink-throated and Green Twinspots, Palmnut Vulture, African Cuckoo-hawk, Gorgeous Bush-shrike, Crab-plover, Mangrove Kingfisher

About the Birding Site

Tongaland describes the extreme North-eastern corner of Kwazulu-Natal bordering Mozambique to the north and flanked to the east and west by the Lebombo Mountains and Indian Ocean, respectively. Much of the region is drained by the Phongolo and Mkhuze Rivers and the area is dominated by the respective floodplains of these two rivers (as well as their tributaries) and is characterised by many shallow pans, Lala palm savannah and bush/forest clumps.

Riverine forest borders some of the larger pans and streams, while the coastal stretch is blanketed in coastal dune forest. As the region is situated in the sub-tropical plain on the east coast, the area is extremely biodiverse and supports many species not found elsewhere in South Africa. Tropical species, both marine and inland, are also regular to this region and can be found nowhere else in South Africa.

Ndumo Game Reserve and Tembe Elephant Park are perhaps the two premier sites along this sub-route, with the former boasting the highest bird list for any protected reserve in South Africa. Together, these are the premier destinations in South Africa for the full complement of sand forest specials including the Pink-throated Twinspot, Neergaard’s and Plain-backed Sunbirds, Rudd’s Apalis, and African Broadbill. Waterbirds such as the African Pygmy Goose and Lesser Jacana can be common on the floodplains, while the surrounding habitat support impressive numbers of Pel’s Fishing Owl, Palmnut Vulture, Lemon-breasted Canary, Rosy-throated Longclaw and Black-throated Wattle-eye. Access to these two reserves is extremely good, implying that they are extremely rewarding destinations to visit, while some of the other destinations on the sub-route are less accessible and offer more of an adventurous feel. Other sites on the birding route include Kosi Bay and the Tshanini Community Nature Reserve.

Key species:

Pink-throated and Green Twinspots, Palmnut Vulture, African Cuckoo-hawk, Gorgeous Bush-shrike, Crab-plover, Mangrove Kingfisher

Other Related Information

Directions:
From Hluhluwe town, follow the R22/Sodwana Bay signposts. Continue for 1.3 km and turn right over the railway line on the R22 towards Sodwana Bay/Mbazwana. Continue straight on the R22 for 124km which will take you past Mbazwana & Mseleni until you reach a large traffic circle. At the traffic circle turn right (third exit) following the sign to KwaNgwanasi / Farazela Border …

Other related information:

Directions:
… Drive 23 km into the town of KwaNgwanasi (also known as Manguzi) and look out for the Total Garage complex on your left-hand side. Kosi Bay is due east of this location and can be accessed through a number of ways, all of which are well sign-posted from the town itself.

If travelling to the Kosi Forest Lodge – a representative will meet you at this Total Garage and drive you to a secure car park not far away. The trip to the lodge from here will be approximately 25mins in an open 4×4 vehicle. Please pre-book which pick up time you require: 12h00 or 16h00.

Notable points of interest include the:
Kosi Forest Lodge: -27.0288, 32.7854
Ezemvelo KZN Widllfie Camp: -26.9602, 32.8259

Access and facilities:
Kosi Forest Lodge features a small sand forest bird hide, open to guests as well a short walking trail within the immediate vicinity of the lodge and covering both grassland and forest habitats. Note that the lodges and Kosi mouth are only accessible with 4×4 vehicles with high clearance. Other tracks through the area generally require 4×4 vehicles with high clearance.
Gate opening times to Kosi Bay Nature Reserve are 06:00-18:00 daily.

Recommended accommodation nearby:
Kosi Forest Lodge is listed as a Birder Friendly Establishment, featuring 8 luxurious tent-style thatched forest rooms. The configuration of the tents includes 1 double, 5 twin, and 2 family rooms capable of supporting a total of 20 guests. Breakfast and lunches are served in a covered dining area, while dinner is served on an outdoor dining deck or within the forest boma. Tea and coffee are available 24/7, and the lodge features a well-stocked bar. A 4×4 is required to access the lodge, though daily 4×4 transfers may be organized from Manguzi at an additional cost.

For more information or to make a reservation, please contact:
Kosi Forest Lodge
Tel: +27 (0)35 474 1473
Email: res@isibindi.co.za
Website: www.kosiforestlodge.co.za

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife manages a small self-catering lodge and campsite on the northern shores of Kosi Bay. Chalets consist of a two, five and sleep sleeper chalets – all of which are fully-equipped with a kitchen, lounge area and private bathroom. The campsite consists of five stands near the lake short, all of which are electrified and have shared ablution facilities.

For more information or to make a reservation, please contact:
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife
Tel: +27 (0)33 845 1002
Tel: +27 (0)33 845 1000
Fax: +27 (0)33 845 1001
Website: www.kznwildlife.com

Local guide information:
A number of guided and self-guided activities are available through the Kosi Forest Lodge including a Raffia palm forest walk, bird watching, fishing excursions including tours to see the famous fishing traps of Kosi Bay, turtle tracking (15 December-15 January only), 4×4 excursions to Kosi mouth, snorkelling, canoeing and guided tours to the nearby Tembe Elephant Park.

Text prepared by:
Daniel Keith Danckwerts (Rockjumper Worldwide Birding Tours)

Key species:

Pink-throated and Green Twinspots, Palmnut Vulture, African Cuckoo-hawk, Gorgeous Bush-shrike, Crab-plover, Mangrove Kingfisher

Contact details:

For more information, please contact:

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife
Tel: +27 (0)33 845 1002
Tel: +27 (0)33 845 1000
Fax: +27 (0)33 845 1001
Website: www.kznwildlife.com

Kosi Forest Lodge
Tel: +27 (0)35 474 1473
Email: res@isibindi.co.za
Website: www.kosiforestlodge.co.za